Ashkenazi Jewish cuisine has a bit of a meat problem: In short, there is just too much of it on the table. There was a time when dairy and meat held more equal footing in Eastern European-American culinary consciousness, and Jewish dairy restaurants like Ratner’s were as popular as their meat-heavy cousin, the delicatessen.
The babka ice-cream sandwich at Russ & Daughter’s Café.
An artist’s rendering of the future Russ & Daughters at the Brooklyn Navy Yard.
Dawn Lerman’s sweet potato hummus is an easy homemade replacement for store-bought hummus.
My 450-pound dad had been in every diet known to man — Akins, Weight Watcher’s, The Cabbage Soup Diet, The Tapeworm Diet. When nothing worked his bosses at McCann Erickson ad agency sent him on a six-month paid medical leave to the “Fat Farm” at Duke University, where he would be expected to lose a significant amount of weight on the popular Rice Diet. He lost 175 pounds eating rice for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The morning bowl had a miniscule piece of canned peach, the lunch serving had a small portion of dry chicken and the evening bowl included a serving of broiled salmon. When he came home he vowed never to eat rice again but was looking for flavorful staples that would keep his newly trimmed body svelte. This parchment paper salmon became his favorite — even my mom, who hated domestic chores, found this manageable — placing all the ingredients in a foil pack and baking. Voilà, an instant meal, with no clean up.