In Spain, Sephardic fish balls, called albóndigas, were seasoned simply with parsley, maybe a little cheese, and then fried and served with tomato sauce. Those fish balls would bore the Tunisians, however, who like spices! These fish balls can be fried first, if you like, before they are slipped into the poaching liquid. I like to serve them atop Sephardic Swiss Chard and Chickpeas, though they are delicious served with couscous, as well. The fish mixture can also be formed into cakes, fried until golden brown and cooked through, and served with garlic mayonnaise.
Spring is when green garlic appears at the market. These fragrant green shoots with tiny young bulbs resemble large green onions or baby leeks, and combined with green onions, they make for a delicate and aromatic stew. If you cannot find green garlic at your market, you can use garlic cloves. With the slow cooking, the cloves will become mild and creamy. I recommend braising this dish in the oven for even cooking and to eliminate worries about scorching, but if oven space is tight, the stove top will do. This stew was a great favorite at Passover at my restaurant, Square One, and it is usually the centerpiece of my family Seder. Serve with rice or roast potatoes.
One of the Passover-themed offerings from Mouth.
You could say matzo’s always been artisanal; it’s a labor-intensive product that usually bears the maker’s stamp.
(JTA) — There’s a Jewish-themed restaurant attached to the ruins of the 16th-century Golden Rose Synagogue here. It first caught my eye last month when I was taking photographs of Meylakh Sheykhet, a haredi Jewish man who is fighting to preserve what’s left of the once beautiful structure.