Posts Tagged: Food for Thought Results 175
I make the treyf groceries first. (In New Orleans, you “make” groceries; you don’t buy them.) Traffic inches along North Broad Street, everyone eager to start the weekend. The sun is a ripe satsuma hanging above the Mississippi, and the Superdome reflects the purple sky. I have several stops to make before I even start cooking, so I’ll be cheating Shabbat in more ways than one. But in a city where crawfish boils melt past midnight and I can’t remember the last time a meeting started on time, it’s more of a necessary adaptation than a broken rule.
It’s no accident that Shiso Soy bottles look like high-end spirits. Soy sauce is “a very complicated, sophisticated brewed product,” according to Jonathan Blum, a lawyer and cooking enthusiast, who became obsessed with the ubiquitous Japanese condiment. “All people know here is Kikkoman, which is like [the ultra-low-end wine] Two Buck Chuck. And they put it on the most expensive food.”
On Wednesday, The New York Times ran a story in its food section about a new cookbook by New York Times writers Frank Bruni and Jennifer Steinhauer called “A Meatloaf in Every Oven: Two Chatty Cooks, One Iconic Dish and Dozens of Recipes — From Mom’s to Mario Batali’s” (Grand Central Life & Style). In it, the two discussed the book’s recipes and the people who contributed them — chefs, politicians, friends and family.
Challah has never been just bread to me. I grew up watching my father proof his yeast every Friday at dawn before he’d race off to do rounds at the hospital, returning at midday to punch down and knead the aromatic dough before braiding and baking it.