“Do you know why the sea is salty?” I asked Mark Russ Federman, third generation owner of Russ & Daughters during the champagne reception at the June 10 Foundation for Jewish Culture’s 2013 Jewish Cultural Achievement Awards at The TimesCenter.
Without missing a beat, he gave the classic shtetl wisdom answer: “Because herrings swim in the sea.” At opposite ends of the Yiddish mameloshn spectrum — he of the Galitzianer persuasion and me a Litvak — we parsed the merits of white fish, schmaltz and matjes herring, before he introduced me to the fourth generation Russ & Daughters owners — inheritors of the 100–year old company’s lox and keys — Niki Russ Federman and Joshua Russ Tupper.
“True story,” a farklempt Niki Russ Federman told the 300 festive guests. “A man walks into an appetizing store on the Lower East Side. He breathes in the aroma of the co-mingling smoked fish, pickled herrings,fresh breads, dried fruits and sweets. He breathes out, ‘Ahhh…I smell Judaism!’ That actually happens pretty regularly at Russ & Daughters.” Noting the upcoming centennial next year, she mused: “That’s 100 years of four generations’ worth of slicing fish, kibitzing across the counter and obsessing over quality… It’s 100 years of brises, bar and bat mitzvahs, weddings and inevitably shivas… Really — how else do Jews say ‘I love you,’ ‘I’m sorry for your loss,’ or ‘mazel tov!’ than with a fatty whitefish, a nice herring, bagels and babka?”
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