Food

Oliver Zabar Expands His Father’s Empire

Oliver and Eli Zabar Image by Eli’s

By Shira Feder August 29, 2018

The name Zabar looms over the New York food world, cornering the market on food markets, bakeries and wine shops. Eighty years and three generations of Zabars later, Zabar’s is still a family business. But Oliver Zabar, the son of patriarch Eli Zabar, is seeking to spread his own wings.

The New York Times revealed this morning that the younger Zabar, who at age 27 has certainly paid his restaurant dues according to his LinkedIn page, is now seeking to open an eatery of his own.

This October, Zabar will be opening Devon, named for his mother, Devon Fredericks. The restaurant, fittingly enough, will be in what was once an old tenement on 25 Broome Street, where Lucky Bee/Jin Sushi used to be. In April, the younger Zabar went before Community Board 3 to request a liquor license. The community approved his request, in no small part due to his father’s long-standing stellar community reputation.

The new venue will have 52 seats and will remain open until 2 a.m. In the liquor license questionnaire, which is publicly available, samples of a future menu included foccacia pizza and smoked chicken tacos. Chef Ken Addington, formerly of Greenpoint’s Five Leaves, has signed on, as well as Sean Sanders, of Slowly Shirley and The Happiest Hour.

Zabar lives a scant few blocks away from the restaurant. Devon’s Instagram reveals a subtle, modern-meets-classic, bright zig-zagged decor. This fall, a new generation of Zabar eateries will continue to dominate Manhattan, and we wish Mr. Zabar and Devon the best of luck.

Shira Feder is a writer. She’s at feder@forward.com and @shirafeder

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