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This recipe is not just about coming up with a hamentaschen that is actually, you know, good. It’s about my nostalgia for the lemon hand pies I used to buy at the supermarket as a kid. They were junky, sugary calzones, shelf-stable, filled with a too-sweet lemon custard, and I loved them. Either they disappeared or I’m shopping in the wrong aisles, but just as well: the loss spurred me to create these far better hamentaschen in their image.
This is the recipe from zabars.com that makes rich, buttery hamentaschen, the kind that caused writer Bob Lefsetz to convert to Purim cookie-lover.
My girlfriend Felice bought a Zabars goodie box for Valentines Day. Now that’s a present I can get down with. And yesterday I had the bagels and lox. You can’t get this kind of lox in Los Angeles. Actually, Zabars calls it “Novie.” It’s oily, it reminds me of the smoked salmon of yore that my father used to bring home from the deli on Sunday mornings for brunch. That was a big thing, I’d like that every week.