Skip To Content
JEWISH. INDEPENDENT. NONPROFIT.
Food

The Strudel That Got Martha Stewart’s Seal Of Approval

Breads Bakery is a New York institution dedicated to mouthwatering bread, pastries and, crucially, its world-famous, self-trademarked babka. But is something else threatening to take center stage? Breads Bakery’s newly-created strudel, the result of a whole lot of recipe tweaking, is the bakery’s newest pastry masterpiece. I spoke to Breads Pastry and Viennoiserie Manager Edan Leshnick about the process of creating a signature strudel.

“At this point we’re making hundreds of strudels a day,” he said. The bakery in the back of Breads is full of employees scurrying around its Union Square location, a pleasant, large room flooded with natural light and the smell of pastry.

On a food research trip to Paris, sponsored by Breads owner Gadi Peleg, Leshnick was struck by the chiffre d’affaires pomme (an apple turnover to us commoners). “What can we do that’s Breads Bakery, using that inspiration?” he asked himself. Thus the strudel was born. Breads Bakery uses an inverse puff on their strudel, meaning the butter is on the outside, engulfing the dough. “When you bite into it you feel the presence of the butter on the outside. It’s crispy, the layers are flaky, it creates a huge mess on the table when you eat it…”

One unexpected strudel surprise? “People are really keen on the sauerkraut,” said a smiling Leshnick. “We weren’t sure how it would be accepted, but people are really into it.” In fact, one of the strudel’s most unexpected fans was Martha Stewart, who had a Breads Bakery chef baking that strudel on an episode of “Martha Bakes.”

“I see it as [the babka’s] more mature, adult brother,” Leshnick says.

Customers have been queuing up for a taste of Breads Bakery’s pastry evolution. The strudels were as light, flaky and messy as Leshnick predicted they would be.

Shira Feder is a writer. She’s at [email protected] and @shirafeder

I hope you appreciated this article. Before you go, I’d like to ask you to please support the Forward’s award-winning, nonprofit journalism during this critical time.

Now more than ever, American Jews need independent news they can trust, with reporting driven by truth, not ideology. We serve you, not any ideological agenda.

At a time when other newsrooms are closing or cutting back, the Forward has removed its paywall and invested additional resources to report on the ground from Israel and around the U.S. on the impact of the war, rising antisemitism and the protests on college campuses.

Readers like you make it all possible. Support our work by becoming a Forward Member and connect with our journalism and your community.

Make a gift of any size and become a Forward member today. You’ll support our mission to tell the American Jewish story fully and fairly. 

— Rachel Fishman Feddersen, Publisher and CEO

Join our mission to tell the Jewish story fully and fairly.

Republish This Story

Please read before republishing

We’re happy to make this story available to republish for free, unless it originated with JTA, Haaretz or another publication (as indicated on the article) and as long as you follow our guidelines. You must credit the Forward, retain our pixel and preserve our canonical link in Google search.  See our full guidelines for more information, and this guide for detail about canonical URLs.

To republish, copy the HTML by clicking on the yellow button to the right; it includes our tracking pixel, all paragraph styles and hyperlinks, the author byline and credit to the Forward. It does not include images; to avoid copyright violations, you must add them manually, following our guidelines. Please email us at [email protected], subject line “republish,” with any questions or to let us know what stories you’re picking up.

We don't support Internet Explorer

Please use Chrome, Safari, Firefox, or Edge to view this site.