Not Your Bubbe’s Bacon

As a resident of Brooklyn, it is almost impossible to ignore the presence of bacon. Walking through different neighborhoods you cannot escape the smell of it. The food has become so popular to even warrant a “bacon flight” (a sample of several types of bacon with accompanying whiskeys) at one bar. But what of the Kosher foodie? How is it possible to feel left out of food in the city that boasts the most kosher restaurants in the country?
Chef Moses Wendel, of the new Pardes Restaurant, may be the first kosher chef in the borough to make his own in house bacon – out of beef. “Beef fry,” as he calls it, is the ingredient that completes the Pardes Burger, one of the house’s signature dishes. Served on a sourdough roll (baked specially for the restaurant) with 12oz of ground chuck (often organic), it is accompanied by house-made pickles, red wine ketchup and truffle mayo. Each mouthful is juicy, crispy and toothsome. It is the quintessential Brooklyn burger – all its ingredients are made either in-house or locally…with love, and with bacon.
“It’s delicious. It’s smoky, salty, and there’s a lot of richness to it. There are very few savory dishes that won’t be improved by adding bacon,” Chef Wendel explains. “I wasn’t always like this” he says pointing to his beard and yarmulke — referring to the fact that he used to eat pork bacon.
But what do the customers think? I ask. He breaks into a grin. “They love it! They want extra!” Doesn’t it make them a little nervous? “At Mosaic [Wendel’s previous restaurant] I used to serve lamb bacon and eggs. It looked and seemed real. That sort of freaked people out.”
Across the country, in Silicon Valley, Kitchen Table — another innovative modern kosher restaurant — serves their house burger with lamb bacon. [Heshy Fried], of the website Frumsatire, who works at Kitchen Table as a kosher supervisor and cook says, “Bacon is about more than just the food. It means something more. If a Jew wants to be funny and tell you that they’re not Orthodox, they say, ‘I eat bacon!’”
Pigs are singled out in Jewish writings beyond other non-kosher animals. It is the only non-kosher animal known to display one of the two signs of a kosher animal — it has split hoofs, but does not chew its cud. Thus, pigs suggests trickiness or duplicity, almost saying, “You think you can eat me? Ha, no you can’t!”
As an Orthodox Jew, I am excited that I can finally eat bacon. The history of Jewish people desiring what is not allowed is not a new thing. Perhaps so, but Pardes Restaurant certainly makes it a little easier in the city of New York to get around that.
I asked Chef Wendel how to make bacon. Here’s what he said:
“There’s a difference between lamb and beef bacon. It’s the same process, but different taste. Lamb is very gamey. Beef and pork are a little blander. That’s why I make my bacon with beef—beef can imitate the taste of pork better than lamb.”
Beef Fry (A Guide)
By Chef Moses Wendel, Pardes Restaurant
1) Take short ribs or navels (navels are preferable.) Brine them for about a week with a mix of spices such as chillies, cloves, coriander and black pepper.
2) Score with a knife.
3) Coat with a mixture of chillies, molasses and garlic.
4) Bake slow and low for about 1.5 hours, at 300 degrees.
5) When cooled, smoke over woodchips, maybe two or three times to get a good, smoky flavour.
6) Chill it down.
7) Remove bones to make a flat shape.
8) Slice thin.
9) Deep fry.
10) Soak it in the molasses/chilli mixture.
11) Let cool.
12) Finally, bake the meat once more.
Itta Werdiger-Roth is a kosher personal chef who operates out of New York City. She is a carnivore with a special interest in vegetarian food and enjoys cooking with locally grown, organic, and fresh ingredients. She lives in Brooklyn with her husband and daughters.
The Forward is free to read, but it isn’t free to produce

I hope you appreciated this article. Before you go, I’d like to ask you to please support the Forward.
At a time when other newsrooms are closing or cutting back, the Forward has removed its paywall and invested additional resources to report on the ground from Israel and around the U.S. on the impact of the war, rising antisemitism and polarized discourse.
Readers like you make it all possible. We’ve started our Passover Fundraising Drive, and we need 1,800 readers like you to step up to support the Forward by April 21. Members of the Forward board are even matching the first 1,000 gifts, up to $70,000.
This is a great time to support independent Jewish journalism, because every dollar goes twice as far.
— Rachel Fishman Feddersen, Publisher and CEO
2X match on all Passover gifts!
Most Popular
- 1
News A Jewish Republican and Muslim Democrat are suddenly in a tight race for a special seat in Congress
- 2
Film & TV What Gal Gadot has said about the Israeli-Palestinian conflict
- 3
Fast Forward The NCAA men’s Final Four has 3 Jewish coaches
- 4
Culture How two Jewish names — Kohen and Mira — are dividing red and blue states
In Case You Missed It
-
Fast Forward ‘Another Jewish warrior’: Fine wins special election for U.S. House seat
-
Fast Forward A Chicagoan wanted to protest Elon Musk — and put a swastika sticker on a Jewish man’s Tesla
-
Fast Forward NY attorney general orders car wash to stop ripping off Jews with antisemitic ‘Passover special’
-
Fast Forward Cory Booker proclaims, ‘Hineni’ — I am here — 19 hours into anti-Trump Senate speech
-
Shop the Forward Store
100% of profits support our journalism
Republish This Story
Please read before republishing
We’re happy to make this story available to republish for free, unless it originated with JTA, Haaretz or another publication (as indicated on the article) and as long as you follow our guidelines.
You must comply with the following:
- Credit the Forward
- Retain our pixel
- Preserve our canonical link in Google search
- Add a noindex tag in Google search
See our full guidelines for more information, and this guide for detail about canonical URLs.
To republish, copy the HTML by clicking on the yellow button to the right; it includes our tracking pixel, all paragraph styles and hyperlinks, the author byline and credit to the Forward. It does not include images; to avoid copyright violations, you must add them manually, following our guidelines. Please email us at [email protected], subject line “republish,” with any questions or to let us know what stories you’re picking up.