My Ottolenghi Adventure
Image by Liza Schoenfein
By Liza Schoenfein March 30, 2016
Delectible dishes on display at Yotam Ottolenghi’s flagship shop in London.
I don’t tend to plan the heck out of vacations, because when we travel as a family we like to pretend we’re natives. We prefer apartments to hotels and we quickly master the public transportation system, if there is one.
Having said that, I went online and reserved a table at NOPI the second I’d booked our flight to London, because while most people have a list of destinations they want to hit in any given place — museums, historical monuments or whetever — I have a list of restaurants and food markets. Heading to London, I dreamed of all things .
Our flat was located in the Notting Hill neighborhood, where Yotam Ottolenghi opened his first “deli” in 2002. We actually stumbled upon it unexpectedly, on a walk from our flat to the open-air market on Portobello Road. The shop is long and narrow, with a counter up front and one communal table down a couple of steps in the back. They don’t take reservations, or have a loo, but never mind, because all the food is available for take-out. The savory dishes looked incredible, but it was the dessert selection in the window that really caught my boys’ attention.
Image by Liza Schoenfein
On Wednesday night we ate at NOPI, Ottolenghi’s high-end eatery. The restaurant has white-painted brick walls and a more laid back feel than I’d expected. The service couldn’t have been friendlier or the food more delicious.
Image by Liza Schoenfein
For my main course, I ordered tuna, which was coated in a berbere spice blend (a typical Ethiopian mix of garlic, chilis, ginger, fenugreek and other spices) and seared, served with a bagna caudo and a black garlic sauce. We shared polenta “chips” (read: fries) which were dusted with Parmesan and served with a garlic aioli.
Image by Mark Jannot
Here I am at our table with my younger son, Teddy.
Image by Liza Schoenfein
The open kitchen is on the lower floor of the restaurant, and diners at two large, communal tables have a great perch from which to observe all the culinary action.
We got home from London Saturday night. Sunday I pulled out my “Ottolenghi” cookbook (you won’t be surprised to learn that I own them all) and made an easy and delicious rack of lamb marinated in a blend of fresh herbs, honey and garlic, which a London friend had made and recommended. While the meat cooks, the marinade simmers, turning into a fabulous sauce that’s served on the side. I happened to have three large sweet potatoes on hand, so I went to the book’s index to see if there was a recipe. There were two. I settled on a simple dish of roasted sweet potatoes with pecans and maple syrup.
Image by Liza Schoenfein
Such a perfect springtime Sunday dinner. I’ll try to post the recipes soon. And I can’t wait to get back to London.
Liza Schoenfein is food editor of the Forward. Find her on Twitter @LifeDeathDinner
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