Don’t Call Me Sugar! Declares Israel’s First Paris Couture Designer
Image by Galia Lahav
Last week at Paris Couture Fashion week, among established names like Chanel and Giambattista Valli, nestled between Elie Saab and Jean Paul Gaultier, was Israeli designer Galia Lahav.
Lahav and her design partner Sharon Sever are the first Israeli designers to nab the prestigious position of guest member of the official couture-granting agency, the Chambre de Syndicale de la Haute Couture.
Image by Galia Lahav
The collection, the design duo’s third run on the couture calendar, had a title fit for the post-Weinstein era: “Don’t Call Me Sugar.” And the collection was everything you’d expect a sass-talking, sex-on-a-stick woman would wear for a night on the town: revealing cutouts and super short hems; gowns in slinky, sinuous fabrics; sequins plastered onto nearly every dress.
Image by Galia Lahav
But as the models sashayed down the darkened runway in the grand hall of the Beaux-Arts de Paris (an 18th century building that’s a part of the Ecole des Beaux-Arts — France’s prestigious fine arts university), it became clear that the designers’ are still trying to find their footing. The collection was strongest when it embraced it’s unapologetically “glam” aesthetic. Like with the billowy lame gown, spliced by sequin panels and cut to reveal the left leg: as the model walked, the skirt, in shades of purple ranging from mauve to aubergine, shimmered under the runway lights, evoking appreciative gasps from the audience as they all, in near unison, took out their phones to capture the moment for their Instagram followers.
Image by Galia Lahav
And then there were the occasional technical missteps — a bunched seam here, a panty line there — which made the collection feel unpolished. Which may have been the point. After all, the design duo gave it an aggressive title, “Don’t Call Me Sugar.” Which is why it was the lackluster presentation was so disappointing — the models remained stoic and impassive as they strutted down the dimly lit runway, their perfunctory walk dulling the sparkle and swagger of their clothes. And after a beautiful breakout collection, with a defined, even extravagant, Victorian sensibility, this collection fell far short of fleshing out who Galia Lahav is as a couture designer.
Image by Galia Lahav
But the problem had mostly to do with the overall aesthetic presented. The designers held back and, aside from a few standout moments, they didn’t take the idea to its full-bodied, swaggering conclusion. It felt safe, even borderline boring — closer to the homogeneity of the early 2000’s red carpet glam, rather than the woman who stands alone, demanding that men shouldn’t dare call her sugar.
Michelle Honig is the style writer at the Forward. Contact her at honig@forward.com. Find her on Instagram and Twitter.
I hope you appreciated this article. Before you go, I’d like to ask you to please support the Forward’s award-winning journalism this Passover.
In this age of misinformation, our work is needed like never before. We report on the news that matters most to American Jews, driven by truth, not ideology.
At a time when newsrooms are closing or cutting back, the Forward has removed its paywall. That means for the first time in our 126-year history, Forward journalism is free to everyone, everywhere. With an ongoing war, rising antisemitism, and a flood of disinformation that may affect the upcoming election, we believe that free and open access to Jewish journalism is imperative.
Readers like you make it all possible. Right now, we’re in the middle of our Passover Pledge Drive and we still need 300 people to step up and make a gift to sustain our trustworthy, independent journalism.
Make a gift of any size and become a Forward member today. You’ll support our mission to tell the American Jewish story fully and fairly.
— Rachel Fishman Feddersen, Publisher and CEO
Join our mission to tell the Jewish story fully and fairly.
Only 300 more gifts needed by April 30
