Shany Littman/Haaretz

In Tel Aviv, a culinary center tackles the age-old question: What is Israeli cuisine?

In the 1980s and early ‘90s, when Naama Shefi’s family, who lived on Kibbutz Givat Hashlosha, wanted to celebrate a special event, they ordered a car from the kibbutz and drove to Kam Sun, a Chinese restaurant in the nearby town of Hod Hasharon. Shefi was a girl at the time and her taste buds…