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The Schmooze

Rosie Assoulin Spices Up Her Fall Collection With Marbling And Pleating

Designer: Rosie Assoulin Date: Wednesday, February 13, 2018 Location: Spring Studios Jewish: The designer, Rosie Assoulin, is definitely Jewish.

Who knew that marble could be made in seemingly thousands of shade and design combinations?

Apparently, Assoulin did, and served marbled crepes and cakes and pastries at her Fall presentation as if to highlight this point.

Marbling was everywhere — from the patchwork, folkloric print of a coat to the fabric upper on a pair of covetable, lace up mules with squared-off toes. But when she pushed the definition of marbling further, her collection really shined — quite literally. Specifically, her marble pleated dresses which she molded like topiaries into increasingly elaborate designs.

It’s nice to see Assoulin continue to expand her design oeuvre beyond outsized sleeves, sculptural gowns, wrap skirts and off-the-shoulder necklines. Which isn’t to say they entirely disappeared — they didn’t. Indeed, they were there in copious numbers. But what has evolved is her approach to color and print — instead of bold monochromatic colors, the clothes were fabricated in a riotous array of marbled prints.

What Assoulin does extremely well is her ability to create head-turning details on an otherwise simple garment. Like the herringbone wool wrap coat. Herringbone is a classic, even typical print for a coat — but Assoulin gave it a twist, with stripes of pastels like honeydew orange, yellow, dusty blue and blush. It’s the kind of clothes that would attract the street style photographers that set up camp outside the presentation, or would make a bold, yet refined statement at a black tie charity gala.

Michelle Honig is the style writer at the Forward. Contact her at [email protected]. Find her on Instagram and Twitter.

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