Eat, Drink & Think is your daily destination for recipes, restaurant news, holiday menus and great food journalism — all through a Jewish lens. From the traditional to the cutting edge, we explore the worldwide Jewish culinary landscape and bring…
Food
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What A Locavore Chef Learned From His Bubbe
Michael Kaphan’s bubbe helped get him into the New Yorker. No, she’s not his publicist. But Kaphan, chef-owner of recently opened Gramercy Farmer & the Fish in Manhattan, features her chopped liver recipe on his farm-to-table menu. “Sautéed in chicken fat and mixed with herbs and hard-boiled egg white, it’s luxuriant enough to be the…
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The Queen Of Beers For Purim? Catch Her If You Can
I never really gave much thought to beer in Israel. Recently, however, I did some reading, and here’s what I discovered. According to the Biblical Archaeology Society: “Ancient Israelites proudly drank beer…and lots of it. Men, women and even children of all social classes drank it…Even Yahweh, according to the Hebrew Bible, consumed at least…
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A Splendid Syrah
When I visit food and wine shows, where vintners and producers present their products to the market, my first question is, “What’s new?” For wineries, the answer is usually nothing more groundbreaking than the latest vintage or a new blend. But when I approached Covenant Winery’s Jeff and Jodie Morgan at the recent Kosher Food…
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Nothing But Family Comes Between The Bread
You could say Jon Eisen got his on-the-job training early. At Between the Bread, the legendary Manhattan eatery and catering company founded by his mother, Ricky Eisen, in 1979, Eisen said he would always do his Hebrew school homework “on one of the café tables, in front of customers.” Chefs would pull him into the…
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Gumbo Shabbat In New Orleans — Treyf But True?
I make the treyf groceries first. (In New Orleans, you “make” groceries; you don’t buy them.) Traffic inches along North Broad Street, everyone eager to start the weekend. The sun is a ripe satsuma hanging above the Mississippi, and the Superdome reflects the purple sky. I have several stops to make before I even start…
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Fun With Hamantaschen
In the beginning, there was mun. And it was good. Mun, sometimes spelled mohn, is the Yiddish word for sweet poppy-seed jam. It was a key ingredient in many Eastern European baked goods, from mohnbrötchen (poppy-seed bread) to munstrudel (a sweet, swirled bread). So it’s no surprise that Ashkenazic Jews used mun to fill their…
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Cooking Kosher-Style To Fight Kids’ Cancer
I have an old friend named Fraya Berg, a longtime food editor and walking culinary encyclopedia, whom I met at the very beginning of my career in food journalism. Over the years, when we weren’t talking about food (or later about our sons — hers, Eli, and mine, Rex, were born within a year of…
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Cutting-Edge Vegan Recipes From Around The World
Of restaurant meals I’ve had around the world, my dinner at Philadelphia’s Vedge stands out. Chef Rich Landau coaxed flavors and textures I didn’t think possible from plant-based food; his wife and pastry chef, Kate Jacoby, blew me away with sumptuous non-dairy desserts. Now, the couple has come out with their second cookbook. “V STREET:…
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Recipes Halva Ice Cream With Sour Cherries
We knew soft serve would be an integral part of our dessert menu at V Street. We did not, however, realize that a soft-serve machine would cost more than some cars or that it requires about a day’s worth of labor to keep it tuned up each week! But the ice creams themselves are so…
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Ivanka-Brand Lox Dropped By Brooklyn Shop? Now We’ve Heard Everything
Did another Ivanka-branded product just get dropped by a retailer? Ivanka-brand lox, whitefish and herring apparently will no longer be sold at Shelsky’s of Brooklyn, the smoked fish and appetizing emporium. If you’ve read this far, you may have figured out that Ivanka smoked fish doesn’t exist, and that Shelsky’s co-owner Peter Shelsky was making…
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Japanese-Jewish Connection? Just Add Soy Sauce
It’s no accident that Shiso Soy bottles look like high-end spirits. Soy sauce is “a very complicated, sophisticated brewed product,” according to Jonathan Blum, a lawyer and cooking enthusiast, who became obsessed with the ubiquitous Japanese condiment. “All people know here is Kikkoman, which is like [the ultra-low-end wine] Two Buck Chuck. And they put…
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