This everything bagel butter from “The Gefilte Manifesto” takes bagels to the next level. Image by Lauren Volo

Makes 12 to 16 ounces butter (plus 2 cups buttermilk)

For the Everything Bagel Seasoning
3 tablespoons dried minced onion
2 tablespoons white sesame seeds
1 tablespoon black sesame seeds
1 tablespoon poppy seeds
1 tablespoon onion powder
1½ teaspoons kosher salt

For the butter
1 quart heavy cream

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1) To make the everything bagel seasoning: In a small bowl, combine the minced onion, sesame seeds, poppy seeds, onion powder, and salt. Set aside.

2) To make the butter: In a large bowl using a hand mixer, or in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the cream on high speed. Be sure to use a deep bowl or you’ll make a mess. If using a stand mixer, drape a clean kitchen towel around the top of the bowl to keep splashes of milk from flying out. After 5 to 7 minutes (or a little less if using a stand mixer), the heavy cream will thicken to become whipped cream (the kind you’d eat with cake). Keep whipping. After 6 to 8 minutes more, you’ll notice the cream will begin to separate into yellowish clumps and watery liquid. The clumps are butterfat, and the liquid is buttermilk.

3) When there’s substantial buttermilk at the bottom of the bowl, and no more seems to be coming from the clumps, 10 to 15 minutes total, turn the mixer off. Pour the buttermilk into a jar and store in the refrigerator for baking or drinking.

4) Fill a small pitcher with ice and water. Using your hands, form the butter into one solid mass and place it in a bowl. Pour some of the ice water over the butter and use your hands to lift up the butter and squeeze out the excess liquid—this is called “washing” the butter. Washing removes any remaining buttermilk from the butterfat and helps keep it from going rancid. The purer the fat, the longer the butter will last. Let the liquid run into the bowl. Continue to pour ice water over the butter and squeeze until the liquid draining off into the bottom of the bowl becomes clear. Drain the liquid from the bowl every couple of times you “wash” the butter. Keep towels nearby to dry your hands between squeezes.

5) When you’ve extracted as much liquid as possible, your butter is good to go. If you’re leaving it plain, shape it however you like—into a log, a stick, or a square—wrap it in wax paper or place it in an airtight container, and refrigerate. The butter will keep in the refrigerator for about 2 weeks and also freezes well. If making the seasoned butter, proceed to the next step before refrigerating.

6) In a large, clean bowl using a hand mixer, or in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat together the butter and the seed mixture until thoroughly mixed. You can also use a fork to mix in the seeds. Shape the butter into a log (or whatever shape you’d like) and wrap it in wax paper or place it in an airtight container. Serve at room temperature for easy spreading. Everything Bagel Butter, if most of the water is successfully removed, will keep in the refrigerator for up to a month.

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My Breakfast With The Gefilteria Gang

Reprinted with permission from “The Gefilte Manifesto: New Recipes for Old World Jewish Foods” by Jeffrey Yoskowitz and Liz Alpern.

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