Eat, Drink & Think is your daily destination for recipes, restaurant news, holiday menus and great food journalism — all through a Jewish lens. From the traditional to the cutting edge, we explore the worldwide Jewish culinary landscape and bring…
Food
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Elegy for Chopped Liver
This is an elegy for chopped liver, a common appetizer with a distinguished pedigree. Its origins have been traced to 11th-century Alsace-Lorraine, where it was foie gras, made from the livers and fat of force-fed geese, plus a dash of Armagnac or Madeira, to add moisture as well as flavor, and salt. In France to…
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Chopped Liver, The Taste Test
The Evaluations Here are the results of , based on a survey of five retail sources in New York. Samples were purchased, listed ingredients noted, and each rendition tasted, chewed, and graded, measured, using a reconstruction of the precious Ashkenazi prototype. For control purposes, an upscale vendor on the city’s Upper East Side was included…
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Recipes Archetypal Ashkenazi Chopped Liver
You’ve read the and cringed over the results of the taste test. Isn’t it time you made your own? Here’s how. 2 pounds kosher chicken livers 2-3 tablespoons chicken fat, rendered into schmaltz by melting the fat slowly in a hot skillet 1 large onion, peeled and cut into very thin slices. (The thinness of…
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A Whole Lotta Deli and All the Weekly Dish
A Pancer’s Pastrami on Rye. Photo courtesy of Pancer’s Original Here’s everything you need to know about restaurant openings and closings, chefs on the move and tasty events happening in the world of Jewish food. ….“The new owners couldn’t cut a sandwich for love or money. The last sandwich I bought here before today was…
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Why Does Bacon Get All the Buzz?
This is the third in a series of pseudonymous essays by The Treyfster. The pieces explore forbidden foods from the point of view of a person who used to keep traditionally kosher. Illustration by Kurt Hoffman If you’re talking treyf, it doesn’t get much trey-fer than bacon. That’s not true, of course. The idea that…
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Vegetables Are the New Bacon at Dirt Candy
At popular vegetarian restaurant Dirt Candy, veggies may just be the new bacon. Amanda Cohen is the visionary chef and owner of Dirt Candy — of one of the most highly-regarded vegetarian restaurants in New York City. Cohen opened Dirt Candy seven years ago to critical acclaim, and has recently relocated to spacious new digs…
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Why I’m Baking Key-Shaped Challah This Week
Schlissell challah made by Melinda Strauss, whose site, Kitchen Tested, offers a recipe and how-to. Photograph by Melinda Strauss Bread has been on my mind lately… It seems there’s nothing like a week of absence to make my love of complex carbohydrates grow stronger. As we begin counting until Shavuot, many will think of dairy…
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Foodie Schmooze Fest at 92nd Street Y
The talk will include a slideshow of images, including this one, from Aaron Rezny’s book “Eating Delancey.” Image courtesy of 92nd Street Y For New Yorkers, the Lower East Side has long been the go-to neighborhood for classic Jewish food. In recent years, though, the area has lost some of its kosher cred, with the…
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Montreal Baker Is Kneading It Old School
Purist pastry chef Jeffrey Finkelstein of Hof Kelsten with his glorious challah. When Jeffrey Finkelstein was a kid in Montreal, he’d savor the soft, caraway-spiked rye bread at Moishe’s, the legendary downtown steakhouse where he’d ask to celebrate his birthdays. Today, his burgeoning wholesale bakery, Hof Kelsten, is making Moishe’s bread — “our signature loaf,…
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The Weekly Dish
Thinkstock If you’ve been eating kosher Parmesan for the past five years, writes Haaretz, “chances are it’s not been the real thing.” The real Parmesan — a trademark protected both by Italian law and European Union regulations — “specifically refers to Parmigiano-Reggiano, a hard cheese produced in northern Italy according to a centuries-old tradition.” But…
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Counting on Barley
Thinkstock When we hear the word Passover, we think about matzo, matzo brei, and matzo balls, but before the destruction of the Second Temple Jews associated Passover both with matzo and with barley. Barley was a critical foundation of our ancestors’ diets due to its resilience in the searing desert heat, and since it was…
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