You could say Jon Eisen got his on-the-job training early. At Between the Bread, the legendary Manhattan eatery and catering company founded by his mother, Ricky Eisen, in 1979, Eisen said he would always do his Hebrew school homework “on one of the café tables, in front of customers.” Chefs would pull him into the…
Of restaurant meals I’ve had around the world, my dinner at Philadelphia’s Vedge stands out. Chef Rich Landau coaxed flavors and textures I didn’t think possible from plant-based food; his wife and pastry chef, Kate Jacoby, blew me away with sumptuous non-dairy desserts. Now, the couple has come out with their second cookbook. “V STREET:…
Rooster Soup Company has a lot in common with other restaurants from Michael Solomonov’s Philadelphia-based restaurant group CooknSolo: Haute comfort food, cool décor and general lack of attitude. But unlike its siblings, including hotspots Abe Fisher, Dizengoff and Zahav, Rooster Soup Company won’t earn CooknSolo a cent. Instead, the eatery’s profits will benefit Broad Street…
My radar went off when Shayne Gryn told me his entire staff had called in sick. Strange though it sounded, I took him at his word. It was Labor Day weekend 2016. I was leading a group of 16 Forward fans on a tour of Jewish Montreal and Toronto. As one of our dinner stops,…
Zak Stern can understand why a Miami newspaper called his new deli “New York-style and Florida-sourced.” But the cheerful, soft-spoken proprietor of Zak the Baker says they got it wrong. “It’s what my ancestors would have opened if they’d landed in Miami instead of Ellis Island,” Stern said. “Ashkenazi Jewish food, but with fish and…
Asian and Mediterranean cuisines are the stars at Jaffa, a new kosher restaurant in a high-end Moscow mall. The menu also dives into what’s known as Odessa cuisine — “traditional dishes of Eastern European Jews,” according to general manager Semen Boguslavsky. “Moscow has just a few kosher restaurants, so people who keep kosher have to…
Leave it to the 21st-century scions of a venerated 103-year-old smoked fish emporium to figure out how to serve a restaurant brunch on Saturday mornings to Sabbath-observant Jews — and anyone who can’t stand late-morning lines. Niki Russ Federman and Josh Russ Tupper, the 4th-generation owners of Russ & Daughters, have done just that. At…
As they settle into their new Washington, D.C. digs, Ivanka Trump and Jared Kushner may be as unpleasantly surprised as I was to discover how very few kosher eateries exist in the nation’s Capital. Of course it’s likely that the Kushners will employ a private kosher chef at their new mansion in the Kalorama neighborhood….
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