London Ups Its Kosher Game With New High-End Restaurant
Graphic by Angelie Zaslavsky
London’s a leading light for Israeli cuisine – think Ottolenghi, Honey & Co., and Bala Baya, for starters. But kosher food? Not so much. “We get the restaurants we deserve,” kvetched Jenni Frazer in the UK Jewish Chronicle recently. “Ugly areas, rude staff, a lack of attention to detail and a customer base which often does not know how to behave.”
Tish – Yiddish for “table” – is trying to change that. The very swish kosher establishment, which calls itself a “grand cafe”, opens this month in northwest London’s Belsize Park neighborhood. Owner David Levin is putting his money where his mouth is, hiring chef John Ellison – a veteran of London institution the Club at the Ivy — and luring a general manager who worked at classic Brit eateries like J Sheekey and Isabel Mayfair.
On Tish’s dairy-free menu: A smart mashup of Ashkenazi classics and chic-sounding chef’s plates, including chicken soup with knaidlach; duck leg with red cabbage; and schnitzel with potatoes. Terrazzo flooring, chandeliers, and 15-foot ceilings are aimed at amping up the luxe vibe.
Image by Tish
“We’re bringing a beautiful and meticulously curated dining room with a stunning alfresco terrace,” Levin told the Forward. “We offer excellent service and a fantastic all day menu cooked by one of London’s top chefs.” Tish will also become the only kosher restaurant in London serving a Friday-night dinner and Saturday prix-fixe lunch. A preview Shabbos dinner menu includes heritage beetroot with figs and chard; beef tartare with chargrilled sourdough; couscous-stuffed yellow pepper; and braised ox cheek with root vegetables.
Chocolate & Passion Fruit Fondant Image by Tish
London-born, Levin grew up cooking with his Hungarian-Jewish mother and grandmother. “I wanted to include heritage dishes that were specific to our community including Hungarian apple strudel with apple sorbet. But the menu is designed to offer something for everyone.” In another departure for a kosher eatery, Tish will open for breakfast and serve until closing. Even though the trend Stateside has been toward specialized, quick-service kosher joints like Beyond Sushi, Levin thinks there’s room for his brand of upscale kosher. “The UK kosher restaurant scene already has quick service and casual options, but in recent years there have been no high-end restaurants suitable for a special occasion or business dining – unrushed, casual luxury.”
Levin’s also hoping the novelty of a top chef who’s cooking kosher might prove a draw beyond the usual diners. “We’re adjacent to Belsize Park tube station, so we hope to attract diners – Jewish or not – from many parts of London,” he said.
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