Eat, Drink & Think is your daily destination for recipes, restaurant news, holiday menus and great food journalism — all through a Jewish lens. From the traditional to the cutting edge, we explore the worldwide Jewish culinary landscape and bring…
Food
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Gorky’s hot Russian borscht will revive your faith…in borscht
I miss Gorky’s. If you hung out in pre-gentrification downtown L.A., circa 1980, you’ll know what I mean. Gorky’s was a warehouse-sized cafe, open 24/7, a glorious Socialist workers commissary crossed with a starving artist cafe. You went there hungover at 11 a.m. for bottomless coffee and a slice of poppy seed cake, or at…
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Can a bacon and bagel sandwich still count as Jewish food?
Edith’s, a speciality grocery store and sit-down eatery coming soon to Brooklyn, will serve traditional dishes from Jewish communities all around the world, reinterpreted. Very, very reinterpreted. Take, for instance, Edith’s pasta amatriciana, which substitutes beef tongue for cured pork cheek, just like they did in the Roman Jewish ghetto. But Edith’s soaks the beef…
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Dorie Greenspan’s Cheese-Swirl Babka Buns
Read, “How I learned to make babka and rugelach from the master.” Makes 8 buns Made with brioche dough, rolled up and cut like sticky buns and reminiscent of cheese Danish, these are sweet babka’s flip side. The filling is a mix of ricotta and cream cheese, shallots and chives. You can play around with…
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Dorie Greenspan’s Rugelach with Four Fillings
Be sure to read “How I learned to make babka from the master, Dorie Greenspan.” Makes about 40 rugelach Rugelach, a cookie with cream-cheese dough spiraled around a sweet filling, was one of the first things I learned to bake. The recipe came from my mother-in-law, and because the dough was so forgiving, I made…
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How I learned to make babka and rugelach from the master, Dorie Greenspan
My confession to Dorie Greenspan, the five-time James Beard Award-winning author of the delightful new cookbook, “Baking With Dorie,” was flat-out embarrassing: Until now, I’d never made either babka or rugelach. This was in spite of the fact that I’d been a longtime food writer—and had even been a food editor at the Forward. “I…
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When your oven breaks, make fried apple pie
The house was clean, the chicken and kugel roasted, and a handsome apple cake waited on the counter. All that was left to do was make salad. The pretty salad bowl from our wedding registry, the one I barely use, was at the top of the tall pantry. My husband would be home in 10…
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Fatty, crispy gribenes are finding a new home—as a diet chip
Gribenes are back. Those crispy, golden, fatty and slightly grotesque pieces of chicken skin fried in chicken fat have not returned to your local deli, but to your mass market snack aisle. Knobby, gnarled and often with a bit of feather attached, they were once a beloved part of Ashkenazi cuisine. Now, several startups have…
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Recipes The spinach frittata that connects me to my Sephardic grandmother
In one of the scenes from my book, “The Poetry of Secrets,” Isabel, the main character is served fritada espinaca, or spinach frittata, at a Shabbat dinner, her first one since she has been captured by the Spanish Inquisition. My choice of that food was deliberate. It’s an homage to my grandmother. She was born…
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A Jewitch Herbal: How to make etrog anointing oil
“A Jewitch Herbal: Mystical Reflections on Food, Nature and Urban Farming” is a regular column by Devorah Brous charting the ways we can use mystical Jewish wisdom, earth-based practices and herbal wellness to reconnect with ourselves in harmony with nature. Brous is an urban homesteader, lifecycle ritualist, and green consultant in Los Angeles. Find her…
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When life gives you etrogs, make etrog liqueur
When my wife first came home with an etrog, I was enchanted and aghast. This was before we were married, when we were just beginning to celebrate the cycle of Jewish holidays together. I knew that to observe the holiday of Sukkot, Jews traditionally constructed makeshifts huts, and performed a ritual waving tree fronds while…
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VIDEO: How to make cabbage strudel for Sukkot
My favorite part come at the end, when we stretch out the dough together.
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